Schneekopf to Fiechterspitze


Publiziert von mvs , 28. Mai 2024 um 13:40.

Region: Welt » Austria » Karwendel
Tour Datum:26 Mai 2024
Wandern Schwierigkeit: T6 - schwieriges Alpinwandern
Klettern Schwierigkeit: III (UIAA-Skala)
Wegpunkte:
Geo-Tags: A 
Aufstieg: 1700 m

I hiked up the Schneekopf from Vomperberg on good, narrow and steep trail. Where the way meets the south ridge between the Bärenköpfe, the way becomes faint and eventually is only marked by red paint. Still, only used my hands once in there.

The journey over to the Mittagspitze is not difficult, but you need to be "schwindelfrei"! Helpful red marks keep you often slightly below the crest, usually on the right (south side). You'll go down and around a prominent tower on the right side before rejoining the crest and continuing easily (grade II in here max) to the summit.

I was slowed down by a large snowpatch on the way down to the saddle to the east, preferring to go around it rather than cross or descend it. Soon I was back on the line marked by red, easily descending to the saddle. Rock is looser in here, take care. Much use of hands, grade II or II+.

Finally, follow a faint line up and right to reach the striking grade II chimney coming down from the summit. Stay with the red marks. I went too far and stepped on a block that dramatically fell away while I held on! Three points of contact at all times...

Getting down from the Fiechterspitze is well marked, though increasingly steep as you go down. Happily the rock quality improves at steep points. A few bolts are in here, marked with slings to make them highly visible.
Two short sections of grade III downclimbing in here, one right above a belay bolt in the chimney, and another about 10 meters above the start of the route where you navigate from a bulge onto a wall moving right as you descend. Very good holds, if sparse.

A great day!

Tourengänger: mvs


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Kommentare (2)


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Nic hat gesagt:
Gesendet am 28. Mai 2024 um 13:46
Gratulation zur schönen Tour! Die "Bolzen" und Schlingen am Ostgrat der Fiechterspitze müssen neu sein. Vor ein paar Jahren gab es diese noch nicht.

Gruß Nico

mvs hat gesagt: RE:
Gesendet am 28. Mai 2024 um 14:00
Danke Nico! Ja, sie sind neue Bohrhaken, aber immer nur ein, auch wenn es irgendwie Standplatz ist...natürlich gibt es auch Plätze für Schlinge usw. Ich sah 3-4...
Schöne Summer,
--Mike


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