Dossen/Ränfenhorn

On a very warm Friday, we start the hike from the nice hotel of Rosenlaui towards the Dossenhütte (if you have the chance, visit the Gletscherschlucht Rosenlaui, it will connect directly to the path to the Dossenhütte). After a few hundred meters of altitude gain, we leave the forest to enter in the glacial valley of the Rosenlauigletscher. Under the hot sun, we walk first along the valley, then up the former moraine of the glacier. There, after a brief pause to contemplate how much the glacier has retracted in the last 150 years, we start the more difficult part of the Dossenweg, where we first overcome a series of rock steps, where a set of steel ropes and a couple of ladders render the path easier. After these rock steps, we arrive at the Rosenlauibiwak, open only for skitourers in winter, and start on the Dossengrat, which will allow us, after a few exposed passages, to win the last 300 height meters that separate the Rosenlauibiwak from the Dossenhütte.

We then arrive at the Dossenhütte after 3h of walking, drenched in sweat from the hot day. After changing into dry clothes (100% worth the extra weight in the backpack!), we then enjoy a socially distant drink on the terrace of the hut, which is located on an "eagle's nest" on the Dossengrat with great views over the surrounding mountains, and wait for the evening and the next day.

On the next morning, we wake up at 5.20 and, after a very welcome breakfast, we leave the hut at 6.10, just as the sun is rising behind us. We get off of the hut already wearing the harness, but not yet roped together, as the first part of the ridge (there is a clear path just outside of the hut, which then reaches the ridge in 5 minutes) is without any difficulty. When we reach the first steel cables that secure this part of the Dossengrat, we rope together, and climb without difficulty this part of the ridge (II). We then reach the summit just above the Dossensattel, which offers a great view over the Rosenlauigletscher. After a brief break, we reach without any notable difficulty the Dossensattel (P. 3009 on the map), and start the climb on the ridge of the Dossenhorn.

On the first part of the climb, we keep to the left of the ridge, where the rocks are nice and easy to climb (II). After that, we stay on the left of the ridge, and climb up to a crack, which we then climb as well (II+). After the crack, we reach a small band on the right side of the ridge. After wrongly believing that we have to follow it (don't do it), we realize that we have to again cross over to the left side of the ridge (you will see a lonely bolt on a rock above you once you cross back, this is your sign that you are on the correct path). Then, we reach the key passage of the climb, a dihedral (III), which, after overcoming it, allows us to reach the summit ridge and, after a few meters (where you will see a cam permanently stuck in a crack) to the summit of the Dossenhorn. Signature in the Gipfelbuch, pictures, and a short, deserved, break. Arrival at 08.20, 2h10m after leaving the hut.

We then descend on the west face of the Dossenhorn, through a well-visible path and, after crossing a snow/firn field, we reach the Rosenlauigletscher. Being careful of the Bergschrund (big crevasse at the edge of the glacier), we get on the glacier and cross it until we reach the Ränfenjoch. Here, we have to be extremely careful of the crevasses hidden under the snow, as the hot temperatures have rendered the snow not super stable. After paying the needed attentions, we are able to cross the crevasse labyrinth of the Ränfenjoch and reach the end of the glacier just north of the Ränfenhorn. There, after an easy walk on a blocky ridge, we reach the summit. Sadly, we could not find the Gipfelbuch, but the amazing view over the Gauligletscher was very satisfying. We arrive at 10.15, 4h05m after leaving the hut.

After a longer break spent trying to guess the names of the various peaks around us, we go back to the glacier and, crossing again with attention the Ränfenjoch, we reach again the west flank of the Dossenhorn. There, we do not go back to the summit of the Dossenhorn, but we cross its west flank through a path on a rock band (marked by multiple cairns). The passage is full of gravel and a bit slippery, but there are plenty of places where to put gear, and there are bolts on the most difficult passage. We get back on the Dossensattel at about 12.00, almost 6h after leaving the hut.

To get back to the hut we decide to take the firnfield on the east side of the Dossensattel. The snow/firn field is pretty steep (40deg at the start), so it is recommended only if the snow conditions are good, but it allows for a faster (and more fun in the opinion of the author :) ) descent to the hut, which we reach at 12.30, 6h30m after leaving it in the morning.

Obligatory drink, followed by the descent to Rosenlaui through the same path as the day before, where it started raining very strongly just as we were reaching the bus stop (it could have waited another 15 minutes...). We reach Rosenlaui at 15.45, about 2h45m after leaving the hut to start the descent.

Super nice tour, definitely recommended.

Equipment:
- 30m rope
- Set of slings and cams (0.5-2), and some quickdraws
- Ice axe/crampons
- If you go back from the ridge, something for abseiling would be useful