Flüela Schwarzhorn

In summer, the Flüela Schwarzhorn has a reputation for being one of the most overcrowded 3000m summits, thanks to the easy ascent from the Flüelapass. However, after the first snow has fallen (and with Swiss people being called to vote in the elections) that picture changes dramatically. I had the whole mountain to myself. The weather and the snow situation were both a little uncertain, but they couldn't have worked out better.

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After an early start in Zürich, I set off from the Flüelapassstrasse as early as 7:45. Thankfully, a trail has already been broken through the snow, following the marked hiking path towards the Schwarzhorn. At the second signpost around the 2800m contour, snowdrift has pretty much destroyed any trail that might have been there. Occasionally though, I can see what seems to be the remains of ski tracks. Conditions can't have been very good for skiing yet...

From the Schwarzhornfurgga saddle, clear footprints appear again and lead the way through the first part of the Schwarzhorn south ridge, which has a couple slightly exposed passages. The remaining ascent to the summit is gentler, but the trail disappears completely here. For the last 30 minutes to the top, I have to fight my own way through the snow, which is some 30cm deep on average.

Clouds have appeared around the Flüelapass, but meanwhile the Schwarzhorn summit is even enjoying a little sunshine; perfect timing! The mix of snow, clouds and sunshine creates a fabulous atmosphere.

I go down along the same way. This time, I'm in the fog most of the way between Schwarzhornfurgga and the Flüelapass road.

A note about difficulty: normally the Flüela Schwarzhorn hike is just a T2. In the current conditions, it's more akin to a F (facile/leicht) mountaineering grade or a WT4 snow shoe grade. Gaiters were essential to keep the snow out of my boots. An ice axe was useful, especially on the more exposed passages just above the Schwarhornfurgga.

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Driving back to Zürich on the A3, rain is pouring down in large quantities. It just emphasizes how lucky I've been that the conditions turned out so well on my hike. Though it's sad that the season for more technical alpine routes is over, this early winter atmosphere is quite something as well!